Yorkshire Puddings

Sunday lunch - at the heart of every traditional Sunday is a roast; particularly on a wintery day. Chicken, pork, lamb and (surely best of all) beef. And no roast beef dinner can be complete with Yorkshire Puddings. Of course, these days brands such as the redoubtable Aunt Bessie mean that perfectly nice yorkshire puddings are available from your freezer, ready in mins. But whilst nice, they ain't GREAT are they. The definition of great can also vary from family to family. The best Yorkshire puds in my family were from my late aunt. Light, hollow, crispy on the outside - stupendous. Here is her recipe:

Yorkshire Pudding

INGREDIENTS
70g self raising flour
2 medium eggs
50ml water
50ml milk
Salt
Pepper
Beef dripping or lard (for cooking)

METHOD

1. Put the flour into bowl and beat in the eggs until smooth.
2. Gradually add the milk/water and beat until lump-free
3. Season
4. Pour the batter into a jug and leave to stand for at least one hour (overnight better)
5. Heat oven to gas 8.
6. Put small pieces of dripping into 4-hole Yorkshire pudding tin or a 6-hole non-stick muffin tin and place in the oven to melt to smoking point.
7. Take the hot tins from the oven
8. Pour batter into tins.
9. Place the tins back in the oven and leave undisturbed for 20-25 mins until the puddings have puffed up and browned. This means DO NOT OPEN OVEN DOOR FOR ANY REASON. REALLY.
10. Serve immediately

If there are any left over you can freeze. As if.

Sausage Plait

The origins of this recipe are from a 1980's Hamlyn Colour Cookbook that my husband was given when he was a carefree batchelor. It has been tweeked over the years but it remains one of his most popular recipes and hauled out at every festive occasion, normally to great acclaim. It's a simple recipe and you can either make one large plait, or several two-person sized ones. Luckily for me I particularly like the end slices which are normally cut off before serving (cut off and filed straight into my tum!) Great for a buffet and loved by kids and adults alike and it's wonderful hot from the oven, (though I personally prefer it cold).


Sausage Plait
Serves 6

INGREDIENTS
Approx half kilo of sausage meat
1 large onion (finely chopped)
Heaped desert spoon mango chutney
125 grms strong cheddar in small cubes (optional)
Salt & pepper
Approx half kilo puff pastry (frozen or fresh but ALWAYS pre-made, life is too short for puff pastry)
1 egg (beaten for glaze)

METHOD

1. Mix all the filling items thoroughly in a large bowl (I have used a processor at times in the past but think its better mixed by hand as you finish up with larger bits of onion, cheese etc).
2. Roll out the pastry to approximately 25x35cm.
3. Spread filling down centre of pastry
4. Cut short slots down either side running away from the filling.
5. Fold up the sides and overlap on top.
6. Glaze with the egg.
7. Place on a mesh.
8. Cook on gas mk7 for approximately 40 minutes.
9. Cool on a rack until ready to eat

This brings back so many memories of birthdays, christenings, Christmasses and just about every other kind of bash were people bring their 'trademark' contribution for the meal. A memory in every bite.

Honeyed Carrot Soup

I think everyone has a carrot soup recipe. Let's face it, if you buy prepacked carrots there are always too many in the bag and carrot soup is a good way to use 'em up. I have several, from a very thin, almost broth-like soup, to a s0-thick-your-spoon-stands-up version. This is somewhere in between and has a lovely sweetness combined with a tiny chilli kick to keep your tastebuds interested.

This one is perfect for winter days when the sun is refusing to shine, like today. In fact I have a pot of this cooking on my stove right now. Here in my corner of Surrey it's grey, overcast and threatening to rain so in an hour so this will be my dose of sunshine - best served with fresh, crusty bread - OK, I have no intention of making my own bread today; Waitrose is going to have to be my baker (they do a wonderful finish-baking-at-home loaf).

Honeyed Carrot Soup
(serves 6)

INGREDIENTS

3 large carrots - approx 900gms (roughly chopped)
2 tablespoons butter
2 onions (chopped)
2 cloves garlic (chopped)
2 tablespoons runny honey
Sprinkle of chilli flakes
Dried thyme 2 pints of chicken stock (can use vegetable if wanting vegetarian option)
Pinch of salt

METHOD

1. Melt butter in large pan
2. Chop garlic and butter and place into pan
3. Cook over a low heat until onion/garlic mix is translucent
4. Whilst this is cooking, peel and chop carrots (You don't have peel the carrots, skins are good for you, but for this soup I do)
5. Place carrots into pan
6. Add honey, stir well and cook for 5 mins
7. Add salt, chilli flakes and thyme then stir
8. Add stock and bring to boil (Confession: I have no hesitation on using stock cubes if no fresh is to hand, in fact even as I type, 2 Knorr chicken stock cubes are doing sterling work in the soup pot)
9. Bring to boil, then simmer for 45 mins
10. Pour into liquidiser and blend thoroughly
11. Serve

My soup will be ready in around five mins, my mug is ready and a late lunch beckons. Any soup left over can be cooled and chilled and reheated in the microwave or on the hob with no loss of flavour. Bring on the sunshine!

Lemon Garlic Butter Chicken

Last night I was having supper with friends but as our lovely hostess has more than a bit on her hands just now with a new job, plus a hospitalised beloved, I offered to cook. Which meant preparing all the food here in Surrey then driving into West Central London with minimum futzing around once there. Those of you who have read some of my previous blogs will be unsurprised at my menu - Cauliflower Cheese Soup, Cold Sesame Noodles, Yeast-free Cheesy Biscuits but I added in another longtime favourite, Lemon Garlic Butter Chicken.

I got this recipe from a friend back in my NYC days and it is a complete godsend when you need a family style dinner in under 30 mins.

Lemon Garlic Butter Chicken
(serves 6 normal people, about 4 in my house)

INGREDIENTS
1 medium chicken (approx 3lbs)
2-4 cloves of garlic (depending on the level of your garlic addiction)
1 large lemon
4oz softened butter
Thyme
Salt
Pepper

METHOD

1. Wash chicken and place breast down in pyrex bowl (with lid) remembering to pierce skin in several places
2. Peel garlic cloves and place in chicken
3. Cut lemon in half, squeeze juice over chicken and place one half in chicken
4. Spread softened butter over chicken
5. Sprinkle with thyme, salt and pepper
6. Cover bowl and place in microwave (yes, you heard that correctly, the chicken is getting microzapped)
7. Cook for 10 mins on full power (this is based on a 700 watt microwave)
8. Let stand for about 5 mins
9. Cook for another 10 mins on full power
10. Test to see if chicken is done - either by spearing chicken and checking juices are running clear or by trying to break of the end of the wing/leg - if come away easily the chicken is done
11. The skin can be easily taken off (warning - the bird will be very pale as no browning will have taken place)
12. Carve and place on dish
13. Take juices from casserole
14. If worried about your arteries pour off some of the butter
15. Whisk the juices together and pour a small amount over the carved chicken, pop rest into jug

If you want to serve this as a roasted-style chicken, pop into a hot oven for a few mins to brown - or use a blowtorch because you don't really want the chicken to cook any more. Seriously - you can get kitchen blowtorches, very handy for such times.

Once the food was delivered all that was needed to do was heat the soup on the hob, warm the biscuits (1 min in microwave), warm and whisk lemon butter mix, serve up and tuck in.

As it turned out, last night there were only three of us and as I had catered for 5 (one friend missing in action and the other one poorly) there was probably too much food (OK, DEFINTELY too much food). But hey, everybody needs a challenge from time to time and even though we stuffed outselves silly when I dropped my passenger off she was happily clutching a doggie bag to share with her partner.

It was a relaxed evening in great company and having all the food pretty much done in advance meant there was more time to hang out, gossip and hit the bubbly (I was driving so only had one glass of champagne but stayed in the spirit with sparkling mineral water!) Supper with friends as it SHOULD be.

Tony’s Arbroath Smokies

Having been brought up in NorthWest London, I now live in Surrey. So if I tell that the only fish restaurant I still eat at on a regular basis (OK, semi-regular) is across London in Finchley that should give you an idea of how insanely wonderful it is. There are queues down the street on a regular basis and I have never, ever, ever had anything less than wonderful food there. The restaurant in question is Two Brothers (297/303 Regent's Park Road, N3 1DP).

The only problem is that I simply HAVE to order the Arbroath Smokies. No question. Absolutely. Either as a starter or main course. Have even considered ordering it for both. For years I have tried to duplicate the recipe and, even when close, have never quite managed it.

I have now come across the recipe from the source. I am in HEAVEN.

Tony’s Arbroath Smokies
Serves 2

INGREDIENTS
Two Arbroath smokies, preferably cold smoked (or smoked haddock for cheat’s version)
2 tomatoes
4oz strong cheddar cheese
Double cream
Black pepper

METHOD

1. Take smokies off the bone and flake.
2. Place in small, shallow ovenproof bowl.
3. Grate cheddar on top.
4. Peel and deseed the tomatoes, chop into small pieces and add.
5. Douse with double cream, enough nearly to cover.
6. Place under grill for 5 min until cheese is bubbling.
7. Grind black pepper on top to taste.
8. Serve.

Note: ‘Smokies’ are whole wood-smoked haddock with the backbone still intact. They are still produced in small family smokehouses in the east coast fishing town of Arbroath in Scotland. They are well worth the trouble of find as no other smoked haddock comes close to the flavour.

Bread sauce

Roast chicken asks for bread sauce. Actually, it DEMANDS it. And it can get really ticked off if the sauce in question is a tasteless, gloopy packet one. Particularly when it is sooo easy to make a home made one. I picked up this version more years ago than I wish to remember from a friend's mother and is has served me well. Remember there really IS no excuse... You owe it to your chicken.

Bread Sauce
(for four)

INGREDIENTS
Uncut bread with crusts removed, broken into lumps - allow a small fist size piece for each person
1 medium onion
2 cloves of garlic
Salt
Pepper
1 oz Butter
1/2 pint milk
Splash cream

METHOD

1. Remove crusts from bread and cut into fist size lumps
2. Peel and quarter onion
3. Peel and crush garlic cloves
4. Place into saucepan and pour milk over
5. Cover and leave to soak for at least one hour
6. When ready, add butter and seasoning and put over medium heat
7. Stir gently trying not to break up onions and garlic
8. When the resulting mixture begins to bubble remove from heat and add dash of cream
9. Stir in gently and replace on heat
10. When bubbling starts again, remove from heat and take out onion pieces and garlic cloves
11. Stir vigorously and serve

Hint of the day: Roast chickens will stay moist if you pop an onion into the cavity - but before you do, cut down into the onion in a lattice pattern, being carefuly not to cut all the way through.

Cauliflower and Cheese Soup

There are no real memories for this (yet) as it is a relatively new discovery but, believe me, it's a perfect soup for a winter's day. I found the recipe online (by John Webber - a tutor at Nairn's Food School) and fiddled with it until it was to my taste. I doubled the garlic and cheese and used Dijon mustard instead of grain. It was velvety, delicious and can be dressed up for a dinner party (home made croutons) or served in a mug by the fire (crusty toast as an accompaniment).

It can be frozen and reheated in the microwave with no loss of flavour too, making it a fab standby for unexpected visitors.


Cauliflower and Cheese Soup
(sufficient for four people):

INGREDIENTS

1 medium onion

2 cloves garlic

40g (1.5 ounces or one-third US stick) butter

1 medium cauliflower

1 tablespoon dijon mustard

900 ml boiling water

50 ml double cream

100g (4oz) grated strong cheddar cheese

METHOD

1. Heat the butter in a large pan.
2. Add the onion and the garlic and leave on a medium heat for 2 - 3 minutes, until they are soft and clear.
3. Whilst the onion and garlic are softening, chop the cauliflower as fine as possible.
4. Add the cauliflower into the onion mix then stir in the boiling water.
5. Bring back to the boil.
6. Reduce the heat and simmer for 45 minutes.
7. Stir the soup well and add the mustard and the grated cheese.
8. Adjust seasoning to taste.
9. Blend the soup with the cream in a liquidiser.

Dunkeys

I am certain these must be known to other families by other names - particularly those with armed service backgrounds. This recipe forms part of a 'full English breakfast' and originates with my father-in-law's national service in the 1950s and was carried back to suburban London to nourish his growing brood. It was a great favourite with the sons and has now passed into their families. There was a suggestion that it was a variation on the word donkey, in honour of the poor beast my father-in-law shot in error whilst on guard duty when stationed in Egypt. This is probably untrue but it's a great story!

A dunkey is fundamentally a whole lump of flour-based carbohydrate cooked in the fat from the fried breakfast whose flavours it will absorb. It may not sound the most inviting think in the world, but once you have tried one I doubt you will turn back.

A word on 'full' breakfast for the uninitiated: these are not for the faint hearted. It is not an everyday sort of breakfast, or even weekly for that matter - in fact I suspect nutritionists worldwide weep at the mere whisper of the concept. But once in a while it is a neccessary evil. There are ways to make it healthier but you won't find them here. A typical full English chez moi consists of many, if not all, of the following in varying quantities: Bacon, sausages, eggs, mushrooms, courgettes, tomatoes, toast and dunkeys.

Dunkeys

INGREDIENTS
2 cups self-raising flour
salt
pepper
milk

METHOD

1. Place flour into bowl
2. Season to taste
3. Add enough milk to form a stiff dough
4. Separate into required number of dunkeys (this will make 2 large or small) - do not attempt to shape at this time
5. Once bacon/sausage has been fried, drop dunkeys into same pan
6. When first side has cooked and hardened, flip and press down to make a thick patty shape
7. Cook second side until golden brown then serve

I am not sure there is a better way to soak up the ill effects of an overly enthusiastic 'night before'

No Yeast Cheese Biscuits

These are biscuits in the American sense - in the UK the closest we would have is scones - yet that desciption doesn't really do these puppies justice. I have a 1950's Betty Crocker cookbook bought by my mother when newly wed and living in Ohio. Until the couple of years I had always used the biscuit recipes from there - however I came across a no-yeast version at Cooks.com which looked interesting and has proved to be very successful. The cheese DOES seem necessary as there is no other fat in this, so it might not be suitable for all menus but they are also scrummy the day after. For those unfamiliar with the concept of biscuits , they are customarily served with chicken but can appear with any main course - I, for example, have made these to go with steak. But they are a wonderful addition to a soup lunch.


Serve them hot from the oven, split open and, if cholesterol (and calorie counting) is not a pressing concern in your life, slathered with butter.

No-Yeast Cheese Biscuits

INGREDIENTS
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup cheddar cheese cubes
1 cup sour cream


METHOD

1. Preheat oven to 500 degrees F for 15 mins before baking
2. Line cookie sheet with baking parchment.
3. Mix together flour, baking powder, salt, mustard, baking soda
4. Cut cheese into small cubes (5mm approx)
5. Add sour cream and cheese cubes into flour mixture and mix well
6. Turn dough out onto lightly floured board and kneed gently for 2 minutes.
7. Either roll out or press down with hands until 3/4 inch thick.
8. Cut out with floured biscuit cutter (a small drinking glass can be used if no cutter available)
9. Bake for 10 mins or until golden brown.

Then it's time to tuck in and enjoy!

Cold Sesame Noodles

Back in the mid/late eighties I lived in New York for while and one of the areas I used to hang around in was Grammercy Park/Union Square. I had friends who lived in a stunning loft converted from a church hall, complete with stained glass windows and one of their favourite family restuarants was Tien-Fu (3rd Avenue between 16th and 17th if you are near there). Having looked it up, 20-odd years later, I find that the full name is Tien-Fu Guong. Don't know if the Guong was there when I was a regular, but hey. Going, going, guong I guess.

One of my favourites on their menu was cold sesame noodles, a platter of velvety scrumptiousness with a hidden layer of cool spring onions and cucumber. Perfect on a hot summer evening.

Over the years I have refined my own version and whilst I am certain it doesn't match up to the memories of the original, it remains one of my favourites. It can be served as a light lunch/supper dish, or with the addition of a couple of poached chicken breasts, an easy dinner. (Guilty secret: I don't poach the chicken breasts, I microzap them in a pyrex bowl with water and salt flakes, and crushed peppercorns. They remain moist, scrummy, and microzapping sounds better than microwaving...)

And I still remember sitting in that amazing space sharing great food with much loved friends.

Cold Sesame Noodles (feeds 4)

INGREDIENTS
Egg noodles (either cooked, cooled and tossed in a little groundnut oil or purchased precooked)
Half a cucumber
4 spring onions
2 chicken breasts, sliced into bite size chunks (optional)
Toasted sesame seeds
Salt flakes

SAUCE
1 cup tahini (sesame paste)
1 cup crunchy peanut butter
1/2 cup toasted sesame oil
1/2 cup olive oil (or groundnut oil if you prefer)
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon honey

PREPARATION
1. If you are cooking the egg noodles, do so well in advance, coat in the groundnut oil, allow to cool and refridgerate.
2. Likewise, if adding chicken breasts make sure they are cooked well in advance and allowed to chill in the fridge.
3. Otherwise, peel cucumber and cut into thin batons about 2" long. Cut spring onions into similar sized pieces and combine both on the bottom of a platter.
4. To make the sauce, combine all ingredients in a liquidiser and blitz until smooth.
5. Place noodles on top of cucumber/spring onions
6. Pour sauce on top of noodles
7. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and and pinch or two of flaked salt

If adding the chicken breasts, place the sliced meat on top of noodles before sauce is added.

Useful note: If serving as part of a buffet, place everything, bar sesames seeds and salt, into a large bowl and mix together (remembering to cut noodles into bite size pieces and thus neatly avoiding unsightly incidents as your guests attempt to eat with one hand!) then add sesame seeds and salt just before placing on buffet.

Recipe for disaster

In generations past, family recipes were handed down from mother to daughter with great care. These gastronic gems were treasured and, indeed, guarded as if diamonds themselves.

Nowdays, with the advent of microwave meals, a take away on every corner, and increasing busy lives, cooking is less central to our family routines. Indeed, some families rarely share the same room, let alone dining table when eating. I admit there have been times in my life when this has been my pattern - getting home very late from work having 'grabbed' something on the way or settling down to soft boiled eggs and soldiers around midnight.

But there is something essentially comforting about sitting round a table with your loved ones (or even not so loved depending on the day) and eating a meal together. Grief, I sound like that gravy advert! But it doesn't have to be cooked from scratch - I love Indian but don't have the room in my kitchen for a tandoor (or the inclination to burn my arms on a regular basis) so any chicken tikka is going to be courtesy of a local restaurant or supermarket. But I will happily make my own raitha to go along with it - and have been known to sling a paddadum into a frying pan

Hint of the day: rather than drown the pappadum it in a whole ocean of oil, pour a small amount into a shallow frying pan and use a bacon press - TFM sell them online for around £10 (plus shipping) - www.tfmsuperstore.co.uk, Amazon sometimes have them but seem to be out of stock at time of writing.

So as there are bundles of great recipes kicking around the family I thought I might share some, along with any memories that go with them. I have no idea where most of these came from; where I do I will give credit where it is due, but if I inadvertently fail to credit, or miscredit, do let me know and I will happily change accordingly.